Hang one of these Christmas wreaths on your front door and it most certainly will get the neighbours talking for all the right reasons.
Use your favourite festive Liberty prints to make your own bespoke wreath. We have chosen to use Capel, Chive, Edenham, Nina, Phoebe, Tatum and Wilshire. Choose your favourite Classic Tana lawns here or visit the third floor in store.
What you will need
Baubles (We have used two different sizes)
Variety of prints of your choice
Firstly start by unravelling the coat hanger and bending it into a circular shape.
Choose a dark print to cover the coat hanger, this will help to camouflage the wire when it’s finished. Cut or rip a strip of fabric about 1.50cm in width and using a paint brush cover the coat hanger with PVA and wrap the fabric round. Do this in sections as you go along until the wire is covered.
Whilst your coat hanger is drying, you can begin to cover the baubles. Depending of what size your baubles, cut fabric circles according.
Wrap the fabric around the bauble, a good to trick to use is an elastic band to keep the fabric tight over the bauble and evenly distributed.
Use the gold ties that come with the baubles to tie around the neck of the bauble.
Start to thread the baubles onto the hanger building them up as you go and alternating different types of prints and baubles.
When you have completed adding the baubles cut the end of the coat hangers with a pair of wire cutters and twist the ends using pliers to close the circle, pull it as tight as possible so the baubles meet.
We have finished our Christmas wreath with a Liberty print bow, this can be tied where the wire has been joined together.
Your Christmas wreath is now complete and ready to hang up, if you have any spare baubles why not cover them with some Liberty print and hang them on your tree!
We would love to see your Liberty print projects share them with us by using #SewLiberty
Deedrie La Follette is a blogger of many skills and based in Iowa, USA. If you like cakes, cups of tea, knitting or sewing, Deedrie’s blog, Mybricole, is one to follow. Her posts often features mouthwatering food to tempt you, along with a baking section with multicoloured frosting and tempting toppings. Set in her idyllic cottage in Mount Vernon, Deedrie shares her crafting and sewing projects which she makes from home.
We caught up with Deedrie to find out more about her crafting roots and just what mybricole actually means.
Your blog Mybricole is a mix of crafty goodness and food haven, when did you start blogging where does the name come from?
I started Mybricole in 2008. My original intent was to be a food blogger, but my first post was about a crocheted shawl I had just finished making. That probably should have been the first sign that food wasn’t going to be my main focus. I chose the name from the French word bricole, it means a small gift or token. I love the idea of sharing handmade little tokens with others, so I came up with Mybricole.
What do you like the most about blogging?
I didn’t expect it when I first started blogging, but I think the people you meet along the way are definitely the best part – whether you meet them in person or not. I assumed blogging was a more solitary thing, but once you start reading and commenting on the posts and projects you come across, relationships build. I interact with my “internet” friends everyday. It’s pretty amazing how connected we’ve become considering how far apart we actually are. We do our best to get together when we can at conferences and retreats. It’s always so much fun to spend time with people who understand what it means to love fabric and sewing.
You incorporate baking, knitting, sewing and much more into your blog. Do you have a favourite section?
That’s like choosing a favorite child! Baking always brings cheers from the kids, and happy kids can’t be bad! Truth be told though, most sewing projects come together so much more quickly than knitting projects that my heart might lean to sewing, plus it’s easier on my waistline compared to baking.
You have made many projects in Liberty print. Which did you most enjoy making?
We probably get the most use out of the Liberty trimmed napkins I made, but my favorite is my Liberty log cabin quilt top. It’s made with the brown calicoes from the Bloomsbury line, and it’s waiting to be tied right now. It’s a bigger job than it sounds because we live in a small 1920′s cottage that doesn’t have a room big enough for me lay out a quilt that size. So I will have to find a larger space to work in for a couple of days.
Where do you get your inspiration from?
My inspiration for projects comes from a mix of things, mostly it’s from new fabric and old books. I love fabric. Floral, geometric, modern, traditional, reproduction, I don’t care – I love it all. Most of my projects start with me walking into a shop and having a bolt of fabric catch my eye. From there I might grab a few things to go with it, but lately I’ve been trying to use more fabrics from the stash I’ve accumulated over the years. While I’m making stacks of fabric, I’m thinking…what have I always wanted to make? How can I put my skills to the test? When I’m feeling stuck I love to look at old books on quilting for block inspiration. It’s a great way to connect to the tradition of quilting while still putting your own twist on a project to make it your own.
Are you working on any particular projects at the moment?
My next deadline is for a quilt for my daughter’s bed. She’s been so patient considering how long I have been working on it. We first started choosing fabrics three years ago, she was 6 at the time so there were lots of pinks and greens. Months later we decided on a pattern and I started cutting. By the time I had a few blocks stitched together, she had fallen out of love with pinks so we swapped it out for blues. It sat for ages, until it made it back to the top of the priority list. I was almost done when she asked me to hand quilt it. She has always loved how I hand quilted the quilt on my bed. I followed the outlines of the flowers and she thought it would be great if I could outline images on her quilt. I have spent my summer outlining moustaches, flowers, and clothespin dolls. It’s been a bit more time consuming than machine quilting, but we are both excited about how it’s been looking, so it will be worth it.
Project: Poinsettia tea cosy
Did we mention that Deedrie loves cups of tea? So much so, she thought that a Poinsettia tea cosy would make a fitting Christmas present, not to mention a great accompaniment to some home made biscuits!
This is a perfect project to make in time for use on Christmas morning. Follow Deedrie’s step by step tutorial below.
All purpose thread
Craft and button thread
Embroidery floss (I used 100% linen floss)
Hand stitching needles
Tiny jingle bells
Paper and dinner plate (to make templates)
Knitting needle (to help with turned petal points)
2 x – 9″ x 14″ rectangles of lining fabric
9″ x 14″ rectangle for cozy back
9″ x 14″ rectangle for cozy front
2 x – 9″ x 14″ rectangles of batting
2 1/4″ x 30″ for binding
2 1/4″ x 4″ for loop between 1/4 yard and 1/2 yard of fabric for petals (depending on how many petals used and what size they are)
Make the top loop, fold the 2 1/4″ x 5″ strip in half lengthwise and press. This gives you a center line in which to fold each raw edge. Fold raw edges into mid line and press, then fold in half. Stitch this 1/2″ x 5″ piece closed (stitching close to edge) and top stitch folded edge. Set aside.
Make the tea cosy template. Cut a piece of paper 9″ x 14″, mark the center line and also up 5″ from the bottom on each side. Use a dinner plate to round the curve from the 5″ mark to the center on each side. Cut out. Set aside.
Using just the back panel and one piece of batting, secure the cosy to the batting by running several lines of quilting. (I stitched vertical lines 1″ apart) Use the template to cut out the quilted back along with the remaining batting, front panel, and the lining pieces.
Pin the two lining pieces, right sides together, and stitch a 1/2″ seam around the sides and top, leaving the bottom edge open. Set lining aside.
Place the front panel on top of the remaining piece of batting and run a line of basting stitches around the edges and top. This will secure the batting so it doesn’t shift while the petals are attached.
Use paper to make templates for the petals. Cut three rectangles, 5″ x 2″, 4″ x 2″, and 3″ x 2″. Fold each rectangle in half lengthwise and cut along the open edge making a half petal shape. Open template and pin to 2 layers of fabric, right sides together. Cut out and stitch a 1/4″ seam around the sides, leaving the bottom open. Turn right side out, use a knitting needle to help smooth inside seams and push out the point of the petal. Press.
The number of petals can vary according to your preference. For a nice full flower, I gather the petals up a bit as I stitch the first layer. I push the needle up close to my previous stitch from the back, but then move it up before I reach the petal so the fabric gathers down as the stitch is pulled through.
I used 12 large petals, leaving about a 1″ circle empty in the middle of the flowers. The larger petals can be stitched all the way to the points. Then I stitched 8 medium flowers, leaving about 1/2″ still empty in the middle. Because the petals are layered, the middle flowers will be stitched just half way along the length of the petal. I stitched 5 small petals in the center, layering the ends over one another, taking just a few stitches on each one to secure them.
Using the Craft and Button thread, stitch the jingle bells in the center of the flower. (Button thread is thicker so it is less likely to break when the thread slides against the metal bells.) I use one length of thread to stitch them all, but I knot at the back of each bell as I stitch them on so they are secure.
Pin the completed front and back panels, right sides together, with the raw edges of the loop sticking out the center top.
Stitch a 1/2″ seam around the outside edge, leaving the raw edges open. Turn right side out. Press seams open to create a smooth seams on the outside. Place the lining inside the exterior panels, wrong sides together. Pin and run a line of basting stitches 1/4″ from the bottom edge.
Now is the time to put the kettle on because you are nearly finished. Take the binding strip, fold in half lengthwise and press and open strip. Press each raw edge into the middle. Starting at the back of the cosy, pin binding over the raw edge, leaving an inch of overlap, trim binding and turn end under 1/2″ and press. Pin at overlap and stitch binding to cosy along top edge of binding. Give it nice press and it’s ready for the teapot.
Follow Deedrie on twitter @mybricole
Add that personal touch to a gift by making your own stamps from rubber erasers. Simple and easy to do, you can choose your own theme and design. We’ve chosen to decorate sketchbooks, but you could use this technique on anything whether it be wall art or cushions. We have chosen to use Wells and Newbury from the Liberty Lifestyle Stile collection.
You will need:
Double sided tape/ Spray mount
Knife/ carving tools
Follow the Step by Step tutorial below
Firstly start by covering your sketchbook. Lay your chosen piece of fabric underneath the open sketch book leaving about 2.50cm all around the book. It’s optional to cut the fabric with pinking shears, but this will help the fabric from not freying.
Using either double sided tape or spray mount, apply to the front of book and lay the fabric on top, smoothing down and lining up the fabric if it is not an all over pattern.
Cut a slit in the middle where the spine runs for the fabric to be folded over evenly on each side with ease. Add a strip of double sided tape around the edge of the inside of the book. Fold the fabric over and make a neatened edge by mitering the corners.
Next cut two pieces of card to sit inside the sketchbook, leaving a little bit of the fabric showing at the edge.
Now for the fun part, choose your design we have used the initial L and a heart for one of the books. Remember if you are personalising your sketchbook with letters or numbers they will need to be mirrored. You can do this by creating your design on a piece of tracing paper and transferring onto the rubber using a pencil on both sides.
When carving the stamp, take your time it helps to be precise as it will show when you print with your stamp.
We have used acrylic paint to stamp for it not to bleed and be hard wearing.
For our second sketchbook we have carved a stamp in the shape of a needle and have made it into a sketchbook to jot down all our sewing ideas. We finished it with a bit of hand embroidery.
Choose from a simple to an intricate design and experiment, there will be no stopping the stamp.
You may remember Anna Joyce, our guest blogger from Portland who showed us how to make an appliqué cushion last year. Back by popular demand, Anna shows us how to make an appliqué table runner.
It has been a busy year for Anna, she tells us more about what she’s been up to and how it all began.
“I started my business, Anna Joyce, in 2009 with a sewing machine that was given to me as a wedding gift, and making and selling a small collection of hand appliquéd pieces. Over the past four years I have drawn on my background as a print-maker to design my own textile collection and grow my product line to include housewares and accessories. Every piece is hand printed and hand made here in Portland, Oregon in the US where I live with my family. My design process is intuitive, relaxed and rooted in the belief that we can and should live with color and pattern everyday.
This past year has been a whirlwind! The launch of my accessories collections, a new website, my two daughters are growing leaps and bounds before my eyes, and to top it all off I am writing a craft and design book to be published in 2015! Writing a book has been a dream of mine for as long as I can remember and I could not be more thrilled to be working with STC Craft on the project. The book is going to be a collection of DIY projects for wardrobe and home – I can’t share much more than that right now, but you can be sure it will feature lots of colour and pattern.”
Follow Anna’s step by step tutorial below to make your own appliqué table runner.
2 Yards (1.83 m) Liberty Lifestyle Floral Print Cotton
1/8 yard (12 cm) quilting weight cottons in a solid colors (you can also use scraps if you have them) for your appliqué pieces.
100% cotton thread in colours to match your appliqué fabrics, one spool for each colour of fabric you choose
1/2 yard (50 cm) fusible interfacing (I like to use the brand “TransWeb)
A sewing machine
Download the Table Runner Pattern Pieces here.
Cut your two yards of Liberty Lifestyle fabric into two pieces each measuring 72” x 13″ (1.83 m x 33cm). Take one of your table runner pieces and fold it in half and iron in a crease – this will help you place your appliqué perfectly on the centre of your table runner. Set the other 72” x 13” (1.83 m x 33cm) and your left over fabric to the side. You will have fabric left over for another project!
Prepare your appliqué pieces
Trace the appropriate number of pattern pieces from the templates provided in your pattern on the paper side of your fusible webbing and cut them out. One side of the webbing is a very thin web of heat sensitive glue, the other side is a paper that can be drawn on easily – it is transparent enough to see through and trace your pattern pieces with a pencil or pen.
When you have finished tracing the pattern pieces onto the fusible webbing cut out all of your shapes and use a hot steamy iron to adhere them to the WRONG SIDE (BACK) of the solid color corresponding fabrics.
Make sure your iron is on the “cotton / linen” setting and set it so that there is plenty of steam.
Do not peel the paper backing from the appliqué pieces until you have fused them onto your fabric. It is much easier to handle the appliqué pattern pieces when they still have the paper backing in place.
When you have ironed your shapes in place on your fabrics, carefully cut the shapes out around the perimeter of the paper, and peel off the paper backing. After you remove the paper, there will be a very thin layer of heat sensitive glue remaining on the fabric.
Next, following the guidelines on your pattern image, place your cut out pattern pieces onto your 72″ x 13” (1.83 m x 33cm) table runner front with the flower in the middle of the crease you ironed. This will insure that your design is centered properly on your runner. When you have everything where it should be, use your iron to slowly set all of your pieces in place onto front of your cushion. The heat from the iron will fuse your appliqué pieces to your cushion front and eliminates the need for pins.
*TIP – for a more finished look, tuck the ends of each leaf under the stem before you iron down your design.
To prevent the edges of your appliqué pieces from fraying, sew around each individual appliqué piece with a tight zigzag stitch. Each sewing machine is different so you will have to adjust your machine’s stitch settings, varying the width and length of your zigzag stitch. Adjust you machine until you have a zigzag that is the width you like, with a short stitch length so that the stitching is nice and tight and will stop the fabric from fraying.
Centre the stitch over the outer edge of your appliqués and simply sew around the perimeter of each piece. I strongly suggest using a thread that is the same colour as the appliqué piece. It will hide flaws and make your finished table runner look much cleaner and more professional.
*TIP – since you are using a lot of curves in this pattern, take the time to cut out an extra a circle or leaf, and practice your stitching on a scrap piece of fabric- you will be very happy that you did!
When you have finished zigzag stitching around the perimeter of all of your appliqué pieces give your finished table runner front a good press with the iron and set it aside.
Now take the backside of your table runner (the second 72” x 13” (1.83 m x 33cm) piece that you had set aside) and place it on top of your appliquéd piece (FRONT) so that WRONG SIDES ARE TOGETHER. Pin around the entire perimeter of your runner leaving one end open.
Sew around the border of your table runner with a 1/2” seam allowance leaving one end open.
Turn your runner right side out and give it a good pressing, tucking in a 1/2” at the edge of the bottom of the runner that you left open, pin this edge closed and stitch around the entire perimeter (1/4”) of your runner to finish the edges.
Press on more time and then your beautiful; festive autumn table runner is ready to adorn your table!
Follow Anna Joyce on Twitter @annajoycedesign
Credits: Photographer: Linnea Paulina, Digital Assistant: Colleen Romike
Have you picked up your copy of The Liberty Book of Simple Sewing yet? Inside you’ll find there is a Liberty Print project for everyone. Or why not give it as a gift, the perfect present for all sewers and crafters.
This week we’re showing you how to make your own Chevron quilt with a tutorial taken from the book.
If the word ‘patchwork’ conjures up images of folksy throws, then think again.
This contemporary, graphic design is deceptively easy to stitch yet is an excellent introduction to core patchwork techniques.
YOU WILL NEED
• Liberty Lifestyle craft fabric in coordinating prints of your choice:
• 112 x 80cm in print 1 (we used Mackintosh in colourway B)
• 112 x 80cm in print 2 (we used Newbury in colourway B)
• 112 x 80cm in print 3 (we used Herbert in colourway B)
• 112 x 80cm in print 4 (we used Wells in colourway B)
• 112 x 150cm in print 5 (we used Lowke in colourway B)
• 120 x 150cm white cotton sheeting
• 200 x 230cm cotton or bamboo quilt wadding
• 210 x 240cm white double sheet, for backing
• cutting mat and rotary cutter
• 6 inch quilter’s ruler (see note)
• long ruler
• quilter’s curved safety pins
• white quilting thread
• matching sewing thread
• sewing machine
• sewing kit
Approximately 175 x 210cm
Quilter’s rulers are marked in inches, not centimetres, so the instructions for cutting out the patches are based on non-metric measurements. The quilt is built up of simple 6 inch squares, each made from one white and one blue rectangle. The quickest way to prepare these is by rotary piecing as shown, but alternatively you can join two 6 x 3.5 inch patches by either hand or machine to make the block.
Seaming the strips
Tear off a 10cm deep strip of sheeting and Liberty Lifestyle craft fabric print, ripping them widthways across the fabric. With the right side facing inwards, pin the print fabric to the sheeting. Machine stitch together, leaving a 1cm seam allowance, then press the seam towards the patterned fabric.
Cutting out the squares
Place the joined strips, right side up, on a cutting mat. Position the quilter’s square on top, so that the centre 3in marking is directly over the seam line. Carefully cut along each side of the square with a rotary cutter. You will need to make 38 blocks from print 5 and 28 blocks from the other four prints. Cut 19 6 x 3cm rectangles from print 5 for the top and bottom edges.
Laying out the blocks
All the blocks are set ‘on point’ (diagonally). Starting at the top edge, lay out ten print 5 blocks with the print rectangles at the top. The next row is made up of nine print 1 blocks, this time with the print at the bottom. Now add ten more print 1 blocks with the print at the top. Continue adding interlocking rows of nine or ten blocks, grading the colours from dark to light: print 2, print 3, then print 4. Repeat the sequence of five stripes, then finish off with the last nine print 5. Add the print 5 rectangles at top and bottom to complete the zigzags.
Sewing on the rectangles
Join the rectangles along the top edge of the quilt top to the blocks in the row directly below. With right sides facing, pin the rectangle to the top edge of the block. Machine stitch with a 6mm seam allowance, then press the seam allowance over the rectangle. The rectangles along the bottom edge of the quilt are sewn to the bottom of the blocks above them.
Joining the blocks into rows
The blocks are stitched together in diagonal rows to make four large triangular sections. These are then joined up to make a rectangle. Start at the top right corner, with section A. Join the ten blocks that make up the right edge of the triangle, with 6mm seam allowances. Press the seam allowances away from the white fabric. Now join the nine blocks that make up the next row in the same way.
Joining the rows together
With right sides facing, pin the two rows together. Matching the left edges and insert a pin at each of the points where the seams meet. Machine stitch 6mm from the edge, finishing the seam 6mm from the end of the final rectangle.
Pressing the seams
Press back a 6mm turning along the edge of the rectangle and press the long seam allowance downwards, over the first row. This will give you a pre-neatened top edge when you make up the quilt. Join the remaining rows in the same way.
ASSEMBLING THE OTHER SECTIONS
Make up section B, starting with the bottom right row of blocks and matching up the right edge of each row. You can seam these rows together from edge to edge. The rows in section C are also joined from edge to edge. Neaten the bottom edge of section D in the same way as the top edge.
Join section A to B and section C to D. Press the seams to one side, then join the two large triangles to complete the quilt top.
Trimming the edges
Now trim off the surplus fabric to straighten up the side edges. Place a long ruler along the right edge of the quilt top, in line with the inside corners. Draw a pencil line along the ruler, then continue down to the bottom corner. Do the same on the left edge and cut along both lines.
Layering the quilt
Press the backing sheet and spread it out over the floor. Spread the wadding centrally on top, then lay the quilt top, right side up, centrally over the two layers. Starting at one edge and working across the quilt, pin the layers together with curved quilter’s safety pins. Position them in a regular grid at intervals of about 15cm.
WORKING THE QUILTING
Using white thread, sew lines of short running stitches along the top and bottom edges of each white zigzag, 6mm from the seam lines.
Removing the surplus fabric
Tack along the side edges, then trim off the surplus wadding and sheeting in line with the edge of the patchwork. Trim the wadding at the top and bottom in line with the folded edge. Cut away the surplus backing following the zigzag edge, but leaving a 1cm margin as the seam allowance.
Neatening the side edges
Make a small snip into the margin at each inside corner. Tack the backing to the patchwork, turning the seam allowance inwards as you go, so the two folded edges match exactly. Slip stitch the edges together using dark sewing thread.
Binding the side edges
Cut four 112 x 5cm strips from the remaining print 5. With right sides facing, join the short ends and press the seams open. Bind the side edges.
*Press under a 1cm turning at the end of both remaining binding strips. Line the folded end up with the neatened edge of the quilt and pin the strip to the quilt. Trim the other end so that it is 1cm longer than the quilt and fold under this overlap.
Sew the strip in place and turn the folded edge over to the wrong side. Slip stitch the fold to the quilt.
THE LIBERTY BOOK OF SIMPLE SEWING published by Quadrille (£20)
Photos ©KRISTIN PERERS; Illustrations ©LUCINDA GANDERTON