You may remember that earlier on in the year we caught up with Keighley, one of our talented print designers and we took a glance into what she makes in her spare time. Whilst working on designing Liberty prints in the week, Keighley makes a range of garments in her spare time which are always in awe of those at Liberty Headquarters!
Why did you choose the Wild Flowers print?
“I chose Wild Flowers because it’s beautiful! I also created and coloured the design from the artwork we received from Su Blackwell, it was really lovely to work on and its so nice being able to wear a print that I’ve helped to create.”
What inspires you to create new garments in your spare time?
“Being in the studio and always being surrounded by gorgeous designs makes you want to go home to make things with it all! Especially when we introduce new fabric bases such as the fleece, it makes it more exciting to see what you can create from them.”
What are your 3 favourite fleece prints from the new collection?
“I love Wild Flowers of course. I also love Eleonora (which is named after our lovely archive assistant) and Wiltshire- a beautiful classic design that looks so cute on fleece.”
Keighley offers some top tips on how to make a snug sweatshirt from the Linford fleece fabric, perfect to keep warm in the winter chill. Learn how to make your own sweatshirt in less than ten easy steps.
What you will need:
Chosen fleece fabric
All your regularly sewing bits and bobs
Step 1: Buy/make a sample jumper pattern, I traced around an old jumper, mine is very simple. Front and back pieces are the same except the front neckline is slightly lower than the back and the sleeves are symmetrical. So both pattern pieces can be cut on the fold of the fabric. Cut two of each of the pattern pieces.
Remember to leave 1cm seam allowance which should already be on your pattern piece
Depending on the drop of the jumper, you will only need the length plus a bit extra for seam allowances as the fabric is wide, mine measured 60cm.
Step 2: Pin pattern to fabric, cut 2 x front/back and 2 x sleeves.
Step 3: Sew back and front side and shoulder seams together, with the jumper inside out.
Step 4: Sew down the sides of the sleeves, again inside out. You can finish the seams at this point with a finished stitch if you prefer to, but this fleece doesn’t fray so you don’t have to.
Step 5: Sew the sleeves onto the armholes, whilst both pieces are inside out.
Step 6: Hem the neckline.
Step 7: Choose how you would like to finish your sweatshirt. Fold over the sleeves twice to give a cute contrasting colour at the edge, or you can hem them.
Step 8: You can either leave the edge to roll for a sporty look or hem for a neater finish.
Step 9: Iron all the seams and hems flat. Your jumper is now finished and ready to snuggle into for the cold winter months.
Follow Keighley on Twitter @Liberty_Prints
Charise Randell returns again, this time to show us how to make a citrus pouch. Are you thinking ahead towards Christmas gifts and stocking fillers or just looking for a sewing project? Charise has made this playful citrus pouch, keep your sewing bits and pieces inside or use it as a make-up bag or even a pencil case.
Choose a zesty colour palette from our Liberty print fabric collection and follow the step-by-step tutorial to make your own pouch.
What you will need:
Fabric based on 44” (112cm) wide goods:
1/4 yard (23cm) print Shell fabric – Light Color Wedges
1/4 yard (23cm) print shell fabric – Dark Color Wedges and Lining
1/4 yard (23cm) solid fabric – Border and zipper tabs
Interfacing based on 20”50cm wide goods:
1/3 yard (30cm) fusible fleece
1/3 yard (30cm) light weight interfacing
Water soluble pen or pencil
9” (23cm) coil zipper
9 1/2” (24cm) wide x 5” (12.70cm) tall
All seam allowances are 3/8” (0.95cm) unless otherwise noted.
If your zipper has any creases, place a press cloth on your zipper, teeth side down and iron on medium heat.
Light Print – 8 wedges 3 1/2” (8.90cm) wide x 5 1/4” (13.40cm) tall
Dark Print – 6 wedges 3 1/2” (8.90cm) wide x 5 1/4” (13.40cm) tall, 2 each lining
2 each - 3 1/2” (8.90cm) x 1 ¼” (3.18cm) zipper tabs
2 each of the border
Cut 2 of each lining
From the Fusible Fleece:
Cut 2 of each lining
Step 1: Following the manufacturer instructions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the lining panels.
Sewing the outside panels
Download the pouch pattern here.
Step 2: Print out or trace the wedge pattern twice onto light weight copy paper or vellum and cut out the pattern.
Step 3: Place one of your light print triangle fabric pieces on the wrong (unprinted side) of the pattern (A1) making sure to cover the entire section. The fabric right side will be facing you. Make sure there is at least 3/8” (0.95cm) fabric around the perimeter of the section and the fabric reaches the edge of the seam allowance. Hold the paper up to the light to help position the fabric. Pin in place.
Step 4: Flip the pattern over and fold back the paper pattern on the line between A1 and A2 and trim to 1/4″( 0.64cm) beyond the line. This is your seam allowance.
Step 5: Place the adjacent fabric piece, A2 right sides together with A1 matching raw edges. Pin in place.
Step 6: Flip the pattern over so the printed side of the pattern is facing you. Stitch on the first line between A1 and A2. Start at the top seam intersection, back tack and proceed to the outside edge stitching to the edge of the pattern. Finger press the seam.
Step 7: Repeat steps #3 – #6 until all fabric pieces are sewn to the pattern.
Step 8: Trim around the pattern piece and remove the paper backing.
Step 9: Repeat for the other side of the pouch.
Step 10: Fold the border piece in half and mark the center bottom with a crease. Match the top edge to the center crease, fold in half and crease again.
Fold the main pouch panel in half and mark the center bottom with a crease. Match the top edge to the center crease, fold in half and crease again. You will have three creases on each panel and border.
Step 11: Place the border with the pouch panel right sides together matching the bottom crease. Pin in place.
Match the first crease, pin in place. Match the third crease, pin in place.
Match the two top edges and pin in place.
Step 12: Stitch the border to the pouch panel with the wrong side of the border facing you. Gently stretch the border as you are sewing to ease the border on to the pouch panel.
Step 13: Press the border towards the pouch panel. Apply spray starch to help remove any wrinkles.
Step 14: Fuse the light weight interfacing to the back of the panel following manufacturer directions.
Attaching the zipper
Step 15: Measure the zipper and trim to 10 1/2” including zipper tape.
Fold under the ends of the 3 1/2” 8.90cm)x 1 ¼” (3.18cm) pieces 1/4” (0.64cm) on the 1 ¼” (3.18cm) side. Press. Press in half wrong sides together.
Butt the end of the zipper to the fold on the tab. Pin in place. Stitch the folded edge with an edge stitch.
Repeat for the other side. Cut the folded edge and trim the zipper to ¼” (0.64cm) beyond the fabric ends. Repeat for the other side.
Step 16: Place zipper face down on the right side of the Clutch Panel 1/8” (0.32cm) from top edge and Pin in place.
Step 17: Using a zipper foot, stitch 1/8” (0.32cm) with a 3/8” (0.95cm) seam allowance from zipper coils, starting and stopping 3/8” (0.95cm) from edge, back tacking at ends.
Step 18: Place the lining right sides with the right side of the clutch panel. The zipper will be sandwiched in between the clutch panel and the lining. Pin lining in place along top edge. Flip the lining panel over so the outside panel, wrong side, is facing you. Stitch the top edge, following the stitching that attaches the zipper to the outside panel.
Step 19: Turn the lining over the zipper. The wrong side of clutch panel will be facing the wrong side of the lining. Press both panels away from the zipper. Edge stitch along the top edge, start at the edge of the border, just shy of the center and back tack. Start stitching again just shy of the center to the beginning of the border on the opposite side.
Step 20: Repeat #17-#20 for the other side.
Finishing the pouch
Step 21: Separate the lining from the clutch panels. Place the clutch panels right sides together matching the raw edges. Fold the lining out of the way toward the center of the panel and pin.
Make sure the zipper is open so you can turn right side out at the end.
Stitch 3/8” (0.95cm) from the edge starting at the top folded edge of the zipper. Clip small triangles on curved corners being careful not to clip into the stitching.
Press seam open.
Step 22: Unpin the lining panels at each end of the zipper. Place the lining right sides together, matching notches at bottom, pin around perimeter. Starting just below the zipper, stitch 3/8” (0.95cm) from edge, leaving a 4” (10.16cm) opening at the bottom for turning. Clip small triangles on curved corners being careful not to clip into the stitching. Press seam open.
Step 23: Turn right side out and press. Use a point turner tool or other small diameter blunt object to push out the top corners at the end of each zipper. Slip stitch or machine edge stitch opening in lining closed.
Follow Charise on Twitter @Charise_Randell
Amy Ellis makes her love for quilting her creative therapy, designing quilts, some of which almost play tricks with your eyes and create an optical illusion! Whilst working on copious projects and drafting up new designs for her books. Amy is often inspired by fellow bloggers which she features weekly on her blog. She champions the importance of being a part of the online sewing community by holding a bloggers quilt festival twice a year. We catch up with Amy to find out more and she offers for some tips for budding authors.
Tell us about yourself?
I’m a wife and mum to four great kids. They keep me busy after school with sports and school clubs, but while they are away at school each day, I happily write, design, quilt and sew. Currently my days are full of deadlines and travel dates, but I love a challenge, and always look forward to connecting with quilters!
When did you start sewing and quilting?
I learnt to sew garments as a girl, and have loved fabric as long as I can remember! Then when I became a mum, I taught myself to piece quilts, and have been loving the creative therapy ever since!
How long have you been blogging and how do you think the internet and the online community effects the projects that people sew?
I’ve been blogging for six and a half years, which is hard to believe, but I have definitely seen how creative energies can flow around the online community. It seems we often subconsciously process the images and information that our brains collect, and can come to similar designs for quilts and clothing. There’s always a bit of a desire to do more and sew more when we are looking online too, there’s a natural drive to have something to share with friends.
You set up the ‘Bloggers Quilt Festival’ tell us more about it and how it works?
Blogger’s Quilt Festival is a place for all quilters to share their work with fellow quilters. I started it, as much for myself as anyone else, I didn’t have the option to travel when my kids were younger to take in shows, and the online community is far reaching. Twice a year, quilters from around the world post on their blogs, and share the link on my blog, then they can spend hours looking through the hundreds of entries, making friends and gathering inspiration for their next quilt. The next installment of Blogger’s Quilt Festival begins October 24th, and everyone is welcome to join!
Being an author of lots of quilt books, what words of advice would you offer budding bloggers and sewers who would like to write their own book?
You can do it! Take the time to blog often, and develop your voice as an author, and designer. This will give you the authority you need to take on the proposal process, and own the ideas that you have for your book. I have found that I have to make things happen for myself, instead of waiting for the opportunity to land in my lap. It never hurts to ask!
Do you have any new and exciting projects coming up that you can share with us?
My first fabric line, Modern Neutrals, is shipping to stores in October, and I have a collection of quilt patterns to accompany those. I’m very excited to see what people make with those fabrics. And in December my next book releases – it’s called Think Big, and features 18”quilt blocks in any size project that the reader wants to make!
Follow Amy on Twitter @amyscreativeside
This year, Get creative at Liberty has a whole range of customisable Liberty print accessories, ideal for gifts or adding a personal touch to your own collection.
Iphis customising with Virgina Ben
If you’re yet to invest in a piece from the Liberty London iphis collection, make sure you place an order this weekend for the chance to have it customised by the brilliant Virgina Ben. Monogramming will be on offer, as well as the chance to commission a totally unique, painted piece.
Liberty print stationery monogramming
Make sure your note-taking is up to scratch with a personalised notebook or journal. These smart leather pieces are only enhanced with gold or silver-stamped lettering. An ideal seasonal gift for those shopping ahead, or simply the best way to make an impeccable first impression in the boardroom.
Flowers of Liberty charm bracelets
These pretty bracelets are a must-have at the best of times, but lucky customers at the event on Friday had the chance to add a Nadia Minkoff charm or two. Shoppers chose from crystals and quirky charms to create the perfect gift or colourful addition to a bracelet stack. If you missed out on Friday, don’t forget you can shop the collection of Flowers of Liberty bracelets online.
Current/Elliott patchwork denim
If you’ve ever had the urge to jazz up your old denim (or invest in a totally unique new pair) then this is the event for you. Talented seamstresses from Sew Over It will be in residence all weekend in-store on the 1st floor to add monogramming and Liberty print patchwork to your Current/Elliott jeans. A brilliant way to give your wardrobe a timely pick-me-up.
If you’re coming down to Get Creative share your purchases and personalised creations @LibertyLondon using #GetCreative
Make your own Liberty print patchwork picnic blanket or throw.
Summer may be over, but the sun is still shining and the skies are blue, making the perfect setting for a picnic with family and friends with this lovely Liberty print picnic blanket. This sewing project is made from this seasons collection inspired by jungles, precious stones, astrology and sunsets.
Make your own original picnic blanket, by choosing your favourite Liberty prints and following our step-by-step sewing tutorial on how to make a picnic blanket. This project is for the intermediate sewer or a beginner looking for something a bit more challenging.
What you will need:
Tess and Rosa A – 30cm
Dulwich Park C – 30cm
Edna B – 30cm
Arrow A – 30cm
Pereira D – 30cm
Baby Rainbow A – 30cm
Opie B – 30cm
Plain fabric – Grey Tana Lawn
Backing fabric – Matt Maddison C
Dress making pencil/ chalk
Start by choosing which fabrics you would like to use, we have chosen a selection of fabrics which fade into one another from our new Autumn Winter Tana lawn collection.
We have chosen to use the plain grey tana lawn for the background colour.
Download our Picnic-blanket-templates.
Making the picnic blanket
Using template A and drawing with a dress making chalk pencil, cut the following amounts from each fabrics:
5 x Pereira D
4 x Baby Rainbow A
5 x Edna B
4 x Arrow A
5 x Opie B
4 x Tess and Rosa A
5 x Dulwich Park
Using template B draw and cut 24 pieces from the plain grey fabric.
Working in rows, lay your fabrics out on a flat surface, if you are lucky enough to have a big enough table or if not you can use the floor.
Begin by sewing row 1, refer to the picnic blanket layout for the measurements of the plain grey fabric which lies on either side of your first diamond.
The top grey segment should measure 8cm and the other side 24cm lining up with the 60 degree angle. The lower segment should measure 24cm on one side and 40cm on the other. Not forgetting to add seam the 1/4 inch seam allowance.
The best way is to cut a strip of grey fabric measuring 16cm wide plus seam allowance and cut across at 60 degrees using the patchwork ruler and lining up on the cutting mat.
Line up the sides leaving a ¼ inch seam allowance at the end and pin in place. When the fabric pieces are flipped the right way they will be in line with the rest of the pieces
Repeat these processes for rows 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8. Keep the picnic blanket laid out so it is easy to see where you are up to.
After all the rows are all complete cut the two corner pieces and the narrow strips in between the rows. Refer to the picnic blanket layout for the measurements.
The narrow strips should measure the following in length and 8cm in width plus the ¼ inch seam allowance. These will be trimmed down afterwards.
Row 1 – 0.96m
Row 2 – 1.44m
Row 3 – 1.92m
Row 4 – 1.92m
Row 5 – 1.92m
Row 6 – 1.44m
Row 7 – 0.96m
Before you start to sew, iron all your pieces flat and pressing seams to the darker fabric. Trim all extra bits of fabric for a neat edge.
Begin to sew all the quilt pieces together, starting from one corner and working towards the opposite side.
Once you have completed, trim the quilt to 130cm x 160cm plus 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Time to cut the backing fabric, we have chosen Maddison to echo the diamond pattern on the front of the picnic blanket. Cut this to the same size as the front 130cm x 160cm. Cut the wadding a fraction smaller for it to be a snug fit when you add it into the picnic blanket.
Lay the backing fabric on a flat surface, securing with masking tape at the edges, ensure that it is flat and smoothed out. Right sides facing, lay the front of the blanket onto, lining up with the backing and smoothing out any wrinkles. Secure layers together with pins or safety pins. Stitch around the picnic blanket with a ¼ inch seam allowance leaving one end at the bottom open, this is where the flap will be added to fasten the blanket. Remove the pins and turn the picnic blanket the right way and press again.
Sandwich the wadding in middle of the quilt, making sure it is flat and reaching all the corners, secure agin with pins, ready for quilting. We have quilted every other diamond on each row, if you prefer you can quilt every diamond, using the quilting thread.
Tip: Stitch in the ditch!
Making the flap
We have made a simple flap which measures 12cm x 33cm. Make this in the same way as the quilt. We have cut the corners for more detail. Add the wadding in the middle, press and insert into the centre of the blanket and pin into place.
Hand sew the opening shut by using a slip stitch, leaving the flap pinned in place until you add the handle.
Making the handle
Cut three lengths of cord around 45 cm each. We have wrapped a strip of fabric round the cord, folding one side over to hide any raw edges as wrapping round. We covered one with grey plain tana and two with Madisson.
Using a pin to hold in place, start to plait them together, we have run a stitch back and forth at the end of the plait to make it secure.
Insert the handle into the centre of the flap and pin into place, this is onto the backing fabric side. Complete by slip stitching the flap closed on both sides adding a few extra stitches where the handle is to make it sturdy.
The only thing that is left to do is add the Velcro. Add two pieces measuring 3.50cm in length, these are placed on the grey side of the flap and the opposite sides of the Velcro are added on the backing fabric. Practice folding and rolling the picnic blanket to find the perfect place to stitch the velcro. Ours was 60cm from the edge of the flap towards the centre of the blanket.
Your picnic blanket is now ready for days out with family and friends.
You can share your Liberty print projects with us on Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest by using #SewLiberty.
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