Guest blogger Kim Niedzwiecki returns again, this time to show us how to a make a cathedral window planner cover. Plan all future sewing projects with this journal and never miss an opportunity to jot down an idea again. You can use all your scraps with this project or treat yourself to some new season’s fabric.
Kim tells us why she chose this project,
‘I wanted to make something that would be a great scrap buster, something beautiful, and something useful. The printed fabrics were the four inch squares (approximate measurements) treasures that were not used in the Lovetag quilt that I made last year. This planner cover has a secure closure and a zippered pocket to make sure that you have everything you need and that it will all stay put while you are on the go!’
An inexpensive planner measuring 8 ½ inches x 5 ½ inches
Two 6 1/2 inch x 2 inch strips
Two 3 inch x 2 inch strips
Three 4 1/2 inch squares
One 11 inch x 5 1/2 inch (for zipper pocket)
One 13 inch x 3/4 inch x 10 inch (for the liner) or you can use muslin
Fabric scraps for the scrappy cover I used 50 4 in squares
Three 2 inch square print fabric
Two 1 1/4 inch square print fabric
One 4 inch x 3 1/2 inch
Two 3 inch x 4 inch (for zipper tabs)
Lightweight fusible interfacing (I used all Pellon interfacing)
Two 10 inch x 5 1/2 inch pieces
Paper backed fusible web
Three 2 inch squares
Two 1 1/4 inch squares
Medium weight fusible interfacing
One 4 inch x 3 1/2 inch piece
Other bits and bobs
Thread ( for this project I used Aurifil 40wt)
Buttons of your choice
9 inch zipper
Snap or Velcro for your closure
Cathedral Windows Block
Firstly measure your cathedral window base fabric you will need 3 x 4.5″ squares.
Fold each in half and sew the short ends closed.
Match up the center seams.
Then sew the top, leaving a space in the middle to turn.
Next trim the corners, then using a turner or the back of a small paintbrush (that is what I used) try to get the points as nice a possible. Then give your square a good press!
Press edges in to give you a guide for your center fabric.
To connect the windows, take two blocks and line the corners up.
Pin the tip and sew along the pressed line and repeat the process on the opposite side.
Sashing of the cathedral windows
Press the 2″ fabric strips under 1/4″.
Pin to the back of the windows with the press mark lined up with the press mark of the window. Stitch into place and stop 1/4″ from the edge.
Take the other strip, again pressing under 1/4″ and pin it.
Open the cathedral window and sew along the seam making sure to stop at the edges of the window.
Flip the window edge over and sew the strips together making sure not to sew the window edge.
Attach paper backed fusible interfacing to the printed fabrics. The large background prints are 2″ and the smaller ones are approx 1 1/4″.
The edges for the larger blocks will be exposed and the interfacing will help to keep them looking tidy and in place.
The window curves fall naturally into place when folded over. You can pin or glue baste them into place prior or just go pin free!
You can see that the centers are not perfect and that is perfectly okay!
These are going to be covered by buttons so no worries about a little wonky. If you wish to not have buttons, you can hand stitch the centers of the windows together before you add the sashing.
Trim the block to 7″ x 2 1/2″.
To finish the outer cover, dig into your Liberty print scrap bin and start piecing scraps together.
Make enough of the patchwork squares to create a center action that measures 14 1/2″ x 12″. Two side flap sections that will measure 11″ x 4″ and 11″ x 3″ for the zippered flap. The back flap will measure 11″ x 5 1/2″.
Sew them all up until you have enough to measure 14 1/2″ x 12″.
Find you favorite buttons and hand stitch them on!
For the quilting, I chose straight lines with 40wt Aurifil. The 40wt gives quilting with a little more “show” and the straight lines do on compete with the beautiful flow of the cathedral windows. I used my presser foot as my guide that made for quick, easy and somewhat precise quilting lines.
After the quilting trim this section to 13 3/4″ x10″.
The tabs are two 3″ x 4″ pieces of fabric. Press ends under 1/4″ and then fold in half.
Fold over the end of the zipper and using a 1/4″ seam sew into place.
Repeat this process with other end.
Piece together two sections, one 11″ x 4″ and one 11″ x 3″ cut matching pieces of lightweight interfacing ( I used Pellon SF-101) and attach interfacing using the manufactures recommendations.
Sew each section to a solid piece of fabric using a 1/4″ seam.
Time to put on your zipper foot.
Turn the fabric over and press giving a nice finished edge. Place the section on one side of the zipper. You can either pin or glue baste in place if you desire. Sew each side down along side the zipper using a stitch length of 3.3 or your preferred length.
Your zipper pocket flap is finished!
Trim the zippered pouch to 10″ x 5″ and lay the zipper front on the 10″ x 5″ piece of solid fabric.
Return your stitch length to about 2.5 and using a 1/4″ seam to sew around the entire rectangle, this creates your pocket.
For the second inner flap, take the other 11″ x 5 1/2″ pieced rectangle, attach your interfacing and trim to 10″ x 5″ then put these two flaps aside.
Cut a 4″ x 3″ piece of fabric and a 4″ x 3″ piece of heavyweight fusible interfacing ( I used Pellon Craft Fuse). Attach interfacing using the manufacturer’s instructions.
Right side facing sew around two sides of the fabric to create a tube and trim the edges.
Turn the tube right side out and topstitch around three edges.
At this point you have a choice between fasteners. You can use snaps ( that was my choice) or you can use velcro. For my snap closure, I hid the male snap piece between the fabrics by using the opening at the bottom to wiggle it to the top. If you will be using velcro you can add this now and maybe try a decretive stitch to make it more fun!
Construction of the Planner
Lay the flap pieces right sides facing to the front and the back of the main panel and sew using a 1/4″ seam.
Leave a 2″ opening in the middle of the back flap to create a space for your tab to be inserted.
Insert the snap on the right side checking to make sure of the correct placement and mark the spot for the placement of the female side of the snap or the Velcro.
Sew in place and trim the excess, next add the other side of the snap or the velcro to your planner cover.
Press seams toward the center panel and the lay the muslin or 13″ x 3/4″ x 10″ fabric on top solid fabric.
Sew entirely around the panel starting on the back flap leaving a 4″ opening at the bottom so you will be able to turn the cover right side out.
After you have finished sewing, trim all the corners. Turn the sewing journal right side out and press.
Pin the flaps in toward the center, pin and then sew using a 1/4″ seam around the entire cover.
Make sure to trim or bury your threads.
Follow Kim on Twitter @gogokim
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